• Embrace the Egg!

    August 17, 2017
    Classic deviled eggs.

    Jim Wilson/The New York Times
    WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 16, 2017

    Embrace the Egg!

    Hello, Cooking! Sam’s off the grid for the next week, having left me holding the bag for the Buffalo-pickled egg recipe he mentioned in Monday’s newsletter. (A tiny but vocal minority of you demanded one.)

    I’m going to yield the honor of developing that recipe, but I have been thinking deeply about hard-boiled eggs. Last week, I put them in my kids’ lunch bags for day camp. This earned them a lot of side-eye from the P.B.&J. crowd. (Sandwich tyranny lives!)

    But what a difference a day makes. I used a dozen to feed the scoffers and their parents deviled eggs (above) at a weekend picnic, and had to fend them off with a fork. (Are there ever enough deviled eggs?)

    I’ve got the megaphone this week and will use it to trumpet a few of my favorite things. Hard-boiled eggs, easy and durable and filling, are among them. These things go in cycles; like any cook, I develop crushes and fads. When the eye wanders to a magnificent potpie, you tend to forget about all the delicious potential of a humble hard-boiled egg.

    But look over here! In summer, a hard-cooked egg can turn a tomato sandwich into dinner, or a potato salad into a vegetarian main course. (Home-cooked and fresh-peeled, preferably, because the ones at the convenience store have been out of their shells too long. That’s what turns them rubbery.)

    If you don’t thrill to the sound of egg salad, call it mimosa – an old-school topping made by pushing a cooked egg through a sieve or a ricer, or attacking it with a wire masher. The result is a fluffy, filling garnish for a big salad (here’s our classic Cobb) or for roasted vegetables (Paula Wolfert’s recipe is a fan favorite). Mimosa is perfect with chopped onion on black bean soup, hot or cold. Mix it with mayonnaise and capers for a sandwich spread. To turn a platter of ripe tomato slices and a handful of herbs into a starter course, I’d put mimosa up against mozzarella any day. (And don’t talk to me about burrata. I’ve used up my quota for 2017.)

    If tomato-mozzarella is your happy place, check out this piece on the pizza master Mark Iacono putting together a pie at Lucali in Brooklyn. N.S.F.W.; may induce a dream state.

    To wake up, read all about the South Florida chef Niven Patel, who takes advantage of heat and humidity to grow Indian ingredients like luffa gourd, moringa leaves and white turmeric. (His restaurant in Miami is called Ghee Indian Kitchen, but his backyard farm on the edge of the Everglades delights in the name Ranchopatel.) Then make his mango lassi (a.k.a. yogurt smoothie) with vanilla and cardamom, and call it dessert.

    Thousands more recipes to cook this week are available on Cooking. Just sign up for a subscription so you can integrate them into your own cooking by browsing, saving, organizing, and sharing. Or find us out in the world of social media, on Facebook and TwitterInstagramand Pinterest.

    See you Friday! In the meantime, send questions, complaints, and compliments over to cookingcare@nytimes.com. They are real live people, so be polite; they will respond in kind.

    Craig Lee for The New York Times
    1 hour 30 minutes, 8 servings
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    Jim Wilson/The New York Times
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    This sandwich pairs slightly overripe tomato slices with the essence of pan con tomate.

    Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
    10 minutes, 2 servings
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    Michael Kraus for The New York Times
    About 45 minutes, 8 to 10 servings
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    Craig Lee for The New York Times
    50 minutes, 4 servings
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    Cookbook author and pressure-cooking expert Lorna Sass shows Mark Bittman how to make a black bean soup with chorizo in less than 25 minutes.

    Craig Lee for The New York Times
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    40 to 50 minutes, plus chilling, 2 to 4 servings
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